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Holy Island Outer Lighthouse was engineered by David A
Stevenson, established in 1905 and automated in 1977. It gives 2 white flashes
every 20 seconds and can be seen from 25 miles. This lighthouse, often called
“Pillar Rock”, was the first square lighthouse to be built by the NLB. It was
built from stone quarried on the island itself, after negotiations with the land
owner of the time, Lady Mary Hamilton. (see Holy Island archives). It is a
large square tower standing on the steep hillside on the east side of Holy
Isle. It was looking very pristine when I last visited in summer 2004.
Apparently, it requires at least five layers of paint, which is used these days
instead of the limewash with which lighthouses were previously adorned. Just around the corner
from Pillar Rock, on the south west corner of the island, stands a smaller minor
lighthouse, Holy Island Inner Lighthouse, originally known officially as Lamlash
Lighthouse, but known more locally as “Wee Donald”. "Wee Donald" now flashes green,
although originally it was a fixed green light. This minor light was constructed in
1877, and like the Outer Major light, it was automated in 1977, one hundred years
later. From “Wee Donald”, there is a good view of Whiting Bay to the left, Kingscross Point directly opposite, and Lamlash to the right – the heights of
Goat Fell towering over Lamlash Bay. Holy Isle counted as a double
station, and the four Keepers were responsible for both lights with two at each
light at any one time. The rotation was worked in a two week cycle of four
hours off, and four hours on, with each keeper changing every Saturday
afternoon. (See Holy Isle Archives)
The cottages were built beside the Inner light, where the land was more
sheltered and flatter.
Today, Holy Island and the Keepers’ cottages are owned by
the Samye Ling Tibetan Centre, based at Eskdalemuir in the Borders
(incidentally, it is very worth making the effort to visit the beautiful
Buddhist temple and grounds at Eskdalemuir if the opportunity presents
itself). It is a Buddhist community which encourages meditation, conservation
and the opportunity to experience multi-faith endeavours. Part of the Principal
Keeper’s cottage is set aside for monks or nuns living under vows of silence or
on long term retreat, while the rest of the house and the other two cottages
serve as accommodation for shorter term visitors, on courses or retreat. The
old engine room has been turned into a shrine room. Higher on the hill, a new
building has been erected to accommodate the leader of the island community,
while at the north west end of the island, the old farmhouse has been cleverly
enlarged in keeping with the original architecture and developed into a
multi-faith centre,
where
conservation volunteers from all or no faiths can come and experience working
and living together, either camping in tents in the adjoining field or in the
hostel-type accommodation in the farmhouse and outbuildings. Nowadays, on
arrival at the jetty, the small ferry, which runs regularly from Lamlash, is
usually greeted by a Buddhist monk or nun, attired in long maroon robes. From
the jetty to the farmhouse, the path is lined with multi-coloured prayer flags
and stupas. The last time I visited, a Tai Chi session was in progress on the
grass between the farmhouse and the beach, while many of the rock faces on the
path between there and the lighthouses have been painted with brightly coloured
Buddhist symbols and deities. It is a lovely walk along the shore path from the
farm to the lighthouses – last time, we watched a young seal lazily enjoying a
swim and play just off shore, a cheeky jackdaw eyed us, quite unafraid, from
close to the path, while overhead, thousands of nesting gulls squawked.
John Clyne and his family moved here in November 1910, five years after Pillar Rock, the Outer Light, was established. Ina, my mother, would have been 4 ˝ years old and her elder brother Tom would have been 6 years old. I know that they kept goats at this time – whether these came with them or whether they acquired them while they were there, I do not know, but I sometimes wonder whether the feral goats which are there to this day are descendants of the Clyne herd! Ina and Tom, of course, would have been taught by their mother – there was no school. Apart from the lighthouses and cottages, the small farm at the north end was the only other building on the island. The dreaded annual inspection of lighthouses carried out by the Northern Lighthouse Board, included a check on the standard of education being achieved by lighthouse children. One can only assume that Isabella Clyne managed satisfactorily – Ina later achieved a Master of Arts Degree at Glasgow University and became a teacher, while Tom studied Pharmacy and practised in London. There was, as was usual at the lighthouses, a small library of books. In the case of Holy Isle, some of these had been donated in 1877 by a benefactress, Lady Bouchier, but in other lighthouses, and no doubt at Holy Isle as well, books, magazines and papers were regularly exchanged via the Lighthouse ships. While Holy Isle may not have seemed so dangerous at first sight as somewhere like Cape Wrath, where the first children in the family were brought up, it did have its own dangers. My mother recalls the time when Tom, supposedly looking after his little sister, took her for a walk “up the hill”. The “hill”, Mullach Mor, is actually 1030 feet high and has many deep and dangerous fissures, which are not immediately obvious due to the heather covering – today, there are notices warning visitors not to stray from the path. When after a while the mist came down, and the children did not return indoors nor respond to increasingly frantic calls, Isabella mustered a party to search for the missing youngsters. Fortunately, it was only a short time before they met the pair returning, very pleased with themselves for having “got to the top”. Uncle Tom, as the elder child at 6 years of age, was severely reprimanded!
It was to be because of Tom, some time later, that the family was given a
compassionate move away from Holy Isle after only 3 years and 4 months. Somehow, presumably it had to have been from a visiting
engineer or seaman, Tom contracted
poliomyelitis,
which required medical attention in Glasgow, and which left him with a permanent
limp. [Although provision was made for the services of a doctor at all
lighthouse stations, (see Holy Isle archives) such an illness would require more
attention than could be given under this arrangement]. Isabella and the
children were therefore forced to return to the mainland for some months and it
fell to John to pack up the household possessions on Holy Isle, in readiness to
move in
March 1914, only a few months before the beginning
of the First World War, back to the north east, to the Black Isle and the lighthouse of
Chanonry.
