Inchkeith Lighthouse was engineered by Thomas Smith.  It was established  in 1804 and automated in 1986.  It flashes white every 15 seconds and can be seen for 23 miles. Mounted on the rebuild of a castle which was built for Mary, Queen of Scots in 1564, its ochre coloured stone tower is 19 metres high and stands 70 metres above sea level, a distinctive mark on the top of an island 3 miles north of Edinburgh in the Firth of Forth.  The tower and the Keepers’ cottages together comprise an interesting piece of history and architecture. 

As yet, I have not managed to set foot on the island itself.  These days, it is too dangerous in  terms of health and safety for boat trips to land visitors on the island, which is covered with the remains and ruins of military installations.  The installations date not only from the last two World Wars, but also from previous campaigns (See Inchkeith Archives).   The tourists’ loss, however, is gain for the gulls, who, undisturbed by human visitation, nest there in their thousands.  Recently however, brightly coloured orange RIB boats can be seen speeding across the Forth and encircling the island, taking visitors on trips around the area, where they can see not only Inchkeith lighthouse, but also the light on the island of Inchcolm, the lighthouse at Oxcars, and the lights on, under and at each end of the Forth Bridges.

Although an island, the Keepers' existence here was not too isolated; in summer at least, it was possible for the families to use the lighthouse tender to cross over to Leith and from there on to shopping expeditions into Edinburgh.  Regular lighthouse stores and items of maintenance were also close at hand, coming as they did from the Granton Depot not many miles distant.  Still a centre for distribution of stores, the Granton Depot can be recognised by the red brick mock light which forms part of the  building. 

Its geographical position made Inchkeith a place of strategic military importance, with its commanding  position in the Firth of Forth.  The lighthouse address used to contain the line of  "Leith Fort".  (See Post Card in  Inchkeith Archives)  As a result, it has been heavily garrisoned and defended since Napoleonic times, with a considerable build up of troops leading up to and during both World Wars, when invasion was feared.  Heavy artillery was on constant alert, ready to fire on approaching enemy ships; much training also took place, with shells and mortars occasionally damaging the lighthouse installations and houses, making living conditions sometimes rather unpleasant for the inhabitants - on various occasions, plaster fell from the ceilings and  windows were broken  by the vibration, if not by actual shells or mortars.  The relationship between the Lightkeepers and the Military on the ground  was therefore at times strained.  However, unless it could be shown that there could be interference to the actual operation of the lighthouse or its business, the NLB appears to have co-operated with the military when at all possible, and it was the need for Defence and Military activity which dictated many of the rules governing life at Inchkeith at that period. (See Inchkeith Archives ) 

In November 1906, John Clyne moved to Inchkeith Lighthouse, taking with him for the first time the latest addition to his family – an eight month old baby girl – my mother.  Ina had been born in Glasgow.  Like all lighthouse couples, John and Isabella sometimes had to undergo periods of separation, when for instance, medical attention was necessary or when sorting out affairs of the family – schooling, apprenticeships, housing etc.  John had finished his last tour on his own while Isabella went to stay in Glasgow  for the birth of  her eighth, and last, child.  Four of the older children had by this time left home, but they still had four with them – Charlotte, Robert, Thomas and Ina.  All of these became subject to the strict regulations pertaining to security as the build up for the First World War took place.  The three youngest were still classified as children and did not therefore require to be registered, but Lottie, the eldest, who remained at home, had to have her own security pass, as did all the other aadult members of the lighthouse families.  Lighthkeepers in uniform were not required to show passes, but needed them for those times when they were not on duty. (See Inchkeith Archives)

 Another interesting piece of social history at this time concerning my grandfather and his family, was the introduction of the Water Closet to the Lighthouse cottages.  Until then, they had been using  ”Earth Privvies”.  Probably indirectly as the result of correspondence from the Military, claiming that the disposal of the contents of the “Earth Privvies” from the Coastguard houses was contaminating the Fresh Water supply for the troops, it was agreed to install Water Closets in the lighthouse cottages.  A windpump was built to pump water into a storage tank, and in March 1910, John was able to write to the Commissioners stating that the fitting of the necessary pipes was complete. (See Inchkeith Archives )  This new luxury was enjoyed by the Clynes for a period of eight months, until November of that year, when the family were transferred from the Firth of Forth on the east coast, to the Firth of Clyde on the west, specifically to Holy Isle, off Arran.

Noss Head Lighthouse             Holy Isle Lighthouses