Mull of Galloway FoghornIt was not the lighthouse itself at the Mull of Galloway which had connections with the Clynes, but the Foghorn; nor was the connection with John Clyne himself, but with his eldest daughter, Isa(bella).  When John Clyne retired, the family moved to Stranraer.  I am not sure that John had any connection at the time with Cairn Ryan lighthouse, just north of Stranraer,  although family members believe that he had – whether as an Occasional  or Retired Lightkeeper, or simply as a friend of the keeper at that time.  At any rate,  the family would have been near to Isa who already lived in the area.  She was married to James Moffatt, who was a builder.  Jim had worked for the Northern Lights, and using roughly the design of the lighthouse cottages, but with an additional floor, he built a new house for himself and Isa, about twenty miles from Stranraer, and only three miles distant from the Mull of Galloway lighthouse.

The original Foghorn at the Mull of Galloway had been built in 1896 and by 1922, David Stevenson, one of the famous Stevenson Lighthouse engineers, was making recommendations for alterations to prolong the life of the existing machinery.  However, by 1925, a new Engine House was required, and an Inspector of Works from Edinburgh was appointed.  This gentleman had previously worked for the Stevensons, and he was asked to visit the original foghorn to draw up plans for the new building.  When this had been approved, the actual building work, as was usual, was sub-contracted and carried out by local builders, including, in this case, James Moffatt, and his son, Jim.  Photographs taken at the time are amazing, showing how stone and concrete for the new foghorn were moved down the very steep incline using an improvised shute, made of corrugated asbestos. (See Mull of Galloway Archives).  It was quite a feat of engineering, perched as the horn house was on the edge of the cliff. 

Mull of Galloway lighthouseThe Mull of Galloway lighthouse stands nearly 100 metres above sea level and is 26 metres high.  It was built in 1828 by Robert Stevenson, flashes white every 20 seconds and can be seen for 28 miles.  On a good day, the Point of Ayre lighthouse at the northern tip of the Isle of Man can be seen, as can the Cumbrian coast.  The decline in shipping in the Clyde area has no doubt led to considerably less passing traffic round the Mull of Galloway, but nevertheless, there are still huge freight vessels and the occasional ferry to be seen.  One of the best places from which to view these in comfort, regardless of the weather conditions outside, is from a recent construction, also perched on the edge of the cliffs round the corner from the Foghorn; October 2004 saw the opening of a Cafeteria and Gift Shop.  This new enterprise, set up and run by members of the local farming community, offers excellent meals, snacks and coffee in a well-designed, modern building, which blends unobtrusively with the surrounding landscape and offers stunning views out over the sea to the Isle of Man, and backwards over the Rhinns of Galloway.

The towering headland surrounding the lighthouse and foghorn, belong to the RSPB who have set up an interesting display in a low reconditioned building just outside the lighthouse complex, while outside, the dramatic cliffs are home to thousands of birds.  Moving further inland, the whole area is one of unspoiled beauty, with luscious green fields, thankfully being re-stocked after the devastation of the last Foot and Mouth outbreak.  It is rolling countryside, with dry-stane dykes, winding lanes, attractive old fishing villages like Port Logan and Portpatrick, and many sandy beaches.

Nowadays, we stay at the Caravan Club Site at New England Bay, a very popular site which these days often requires pre-booking.  My childhood memories, however, take me back to a cottage within sight of the lighthouse, just up the hill from “Glenview”, the house built by Uncle Jim Moffatt.  He and Isa retired to the cottage “Castlehill”, where I well remember lying in the front bedroom at night, as the sweep of the lighthouse beam rotated every 20 seconds, revealing in its beam hundreds of Daddy-Long-Legs which  fluttered above my head, forcing me to dive below the covers in case they should fly downwards and tickle me.  By day, Aunt Isa baked the most delicious traditional wheaten and treacle scones on her kitchen range, and kept in the yard at least three large turkeys, whose eggs provided a hearty breakfast.  Every year, we would visit the lighthouse at least once during my three week stay, and go up the tower to see the paraffin lamps, the shining brass and the curtains drawn to prevent the sun shining on the lenses and causing fire. On misty nights, the foghorn would boom out in its deep, mournful tones. 

Down the hill, in the original house, lived “Young Jim” and his wife, Nanny.  Young Jim kept pigs, as well as continuing his father’s job of building.  He also used to go out with some of the local lobster fishermen, and I seem to remember that lying in the corner of the room, there would always be a plate of fresh lobster with a small hammer, so that one could help oneself at any time.  Jim and Nanny continued to be involved with lighthouse life.  Jim did minor repairs to the lighthouse buildings, while Nanny picked up the lighthouse children in her car, and drove them to and from school each day.  She also, for many years, gave hospitality to visiting Lighthouse Keepers and Engineers, and even until quite recently, a knock on her door could herald the impromptu visit of some of the Northern Lights'  most senior officials, who had just called to say hello, while visiting the Lighthouse.

Mull of Galloway cliffsMost recently, her close neighbour, who has been the Lighthouse Attendant for many years, has been made redundant with yet more automation and centralisation, as one person has now been made responsible for managing the buildings of all of the lighthouses in the area, including the other three major lights on the Rhinns of Galloway – Crammag Head, Killintringan and Corsewall.  The operation of the light itself, like that of all Scottish lighthouses, is monitored directly and electronically from 84 George Street in Edinburgh, the headquarters of the Northern Lighthouse Board.